Orange wine: Here to stay
Gotsa Asureti Valley Chinuri ($23). In this chinuri from Georgia, “there’s a creamy side to the ripe apple and persimmon flavors.”
Damijan Kaplja Venezia Giulia White ($46). Quieter than many other orange wines, this Italian blend offers “a dark, graphite minerality” and roasted orange notes.
Paolo Bea Santa Chiara Umbria Bianco ($44). This Umbrian wine combines “a sweet fruit aspect” with “black-walnut tannin.” ■